Most of us think of gems as hard mineral, or shiny stones faceted from crystal rough that forms beneath the Earth's surface. However, there exist several organic gemstones formed through plants and animalprocesses. The most famous organic gems formed by animals are pearls and precious coral, while the most famous plant varieties are amber and jet.

One the most alluring and exotic of the organic gems would have to be black or Tahitian pearls. Black South Sea pearls are formed courtesy of a mollusc known to scientists as pinctada margaritifera orblack-lipped pearl oyster to us. The particular variety of these oysters which can produce the iridescent nacre black pearls are famous for, are concentrated in the waters around French Polynesia. These waters produce 93-95% of the gem-quality black pearls on the market. They are commonly named Tahitian pearls, as Tahiti is situated near the islands where these gorgeous pearls are cultivated.

The black pearls on the market today are nearly all cultured, which means that the pearls do not form randomly by chance due to the processes of nature, but are farmed by man. The naturally generated spat, or immature oysters, are collected on artificial spat collectors that are strategically positioned in lagoons or the open sea. The juveniles are granted three years to develop before they are ready to be implanted with a mother of pearl bead. Once implanted, the oyster will cover the bead with its own nacre creating concentric layers that give the pearls their beautiful, iridescent pearly lustre. After about 12-14 months, the pearls are ready for harvesting. Out of 100 oysters, only around6 will be round or semi round, 20 will be semi baroque and 11 will be full baroques. The remainder will be unsaleable or the oyster wasn’t able to yield a pearl. You can see fromthese statistics howprecious and rare theperfectly round black pearl is!

Black pearls are diverse in colour, ranging from silvery grey to charcoal with under- and overtones of silver, gold, pink, green and blue. Some black pearls are known as peacocks and you can see greens, blues, pinks and golds swirling together in an iridescent fashion. The lustre of pearl is known as pearly and the sheen as orient of pearl; the lustre is the result of how light reflects off the pearl while the sheen is due to the diffraction of light through the incredibly fine layers of nacre which creates iridescence.

When selecting pearls it's good to keep the following tips in mind. The first is to look at the lustre. Ideally when you look at the pearl you need to see yourself reflected back as if looking into a mirror. The more sharply you can see yourself, the better the lustre. If you appear faint and fuzzy, the lustre is poor. Next is to appraise the orient. If you can see undertones of iridescent colours, the pearl is of good quality. If the pearl appears as a flat colour, the sheen is poor. Next is to look for any blemishes. Naturally, if the pearl is free from any pits or circular rings and the nacre is nice and smooth, it's good quality. Finally, look at the shape a perfectly round pearl is the most desirable - unless you prefer the baroque look.

We have just created these spectacular grey pearl earrings named Tahiti,with lovely round silver-grey pearls juxtaposed with square cut teal tourmalines,in a very contemporary setting in 18k white gold. The combination of mineral and organic gems creates a sophisticated look that's a far cry from your grandmother's classic pearl studs.

“Star light, Star bright, First star I see tonight.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the legendary gem buyer for Tiffany & Co., George Frederik Kunz, attempted to come up with an appealing name for a very beautiful, brilliant gem with the rather ugly name of zircon. He decided because of the stone's vibrant optical properties that Starlight would be a suitable moniker that would hopefully catch on in the jewellery trade. Unfortunately, it didn't, and zircon was stuck with its unattractive name. Tiffany & Co. had much better success later in the 1960s renaming the purple/blue variety of zoisite as Tanzanite.

To make matters worse for poor zircon, it was used as a diamond substitute during the 1950's and 60's to be then superseded by the synthetic gemstone named Cubic Zirconia in the 1970's and synthetic moissanite in the late 1990's. Not only was zircon considered a poor man's diamond it was also thought to be synthetic due to the similarity in name to cubic zirconia. Both gems contain zirconium in their formulas: zircon is a naturally occurring zirconium silicate while cubic zirconia is a laboratory created form of zirconium dioxide.

Luckily for gem lovers and collectors, zircon is now finally receiving the admiration it truly deserves. It comes in a wide range of colours including green, blue, colourless, orange, yellow, red, brown and black. Some zircons have a fabulous pinky-brown colour that is very feminine and appealing. Zircon has high dispersion, which means it splits white light into its spectral colours in a similar fashion to diamond, resulting in rainbow-ike flashes. It also has a very high lustre, known as sub-adamantine, which also resembles the lustre of diamond. It has reasonably good hardness at 7.5 on the Mohs scale so it's suitable for ring settings however it has a brittle tenacity (poor ability to absorb shock) so bezel settings are highly suitable if a zircon ring is to be worn frequently.

World sources include Cambodia, Madagascar, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Thailand, Tanzania, China and Australia. Zircon is the oldest mineral on earth, dating back to 4.4 billion years. Australia is the world leader in zircon mining and the most famous Australian deposit is at Mud Tank Zircon Field in the Harts Range area, Northern Territory. The gem quality zircons found in this location reflect the earthy colours of the landscape and come in golds, Champagnes, pinks, plums, sherry colours and browns. They can be heat treated to become colourless but will not turn blue like the material found in Kampuchea.

The lore surrounding zircon from the Medieval period is that it promoted a good night's sleep, brought prosperity and enhanced honour and wisdom in its owner. The modern take on the metaphysical properties of zircon is that it grounds one and will work with the chakras to reactivate sluggish energy and will assist you to achieve your aims. A handy stone to have on board!

We at Lizunovahope that you enjoy discovering the delightful properties of zircon and that it will be become part of your jewellery collection. If you would like to view a selection of these sparkling wonders please contact us for an appointment.

Photo Credit: gia.edu

Soft and velvety like a fine Bordeaux, Rhodolite garnets are a great choice if you desire a rich red gem with great clarity and good fire and an appealing price. So many rubies on the market today are colour and clarity enhanced and can often be glass filled or at least heat treated. Moreover, there are many clever synthetics on the market which can easily deceive the untrained eye. The great thing about Rhodolites is that they are treatment free and have very few inclusions. Their gorgeous raspberry through to rose un heat-treated colour can have some violet overtones and they are not as dark as the classic Almandine garnets so are often mistaken for rubellite tourmaline or rubies. Rhodolite was named after the pink rhododendron flower that is native to North Carolina, where it was first discovered in 1890 by the mineralogist William Earl Hidden. Rhodolites are a cross between two of the major garnet family varieties: Pyrope and Alamndine. As they can chemically exchange some elements on an atomic level the garnet family is full of hybrids and Rhodolite is one of these exotic blends. If you love the look of ruby yet not the price tag, then rhodolite garnet is a great alternative. We can source stones of all shapes and carat weight and would be delighted to create your perfect bespoke garnet piece.

The latest trend in men's wedding bands and dress rings is sleek and versatile zirconium.

Zirconium is a lustrous grey-white metal that has some resemblance to titanium and hafnium. It is extremely durable and resistant to corrosion. It is employed in many chemical industries to contain or transport chemicals. As it is so chemically stable and tough, it is also used to build nuclear reactors! Another one of its amazing attributes is that it's non-toxic and is perfect for people with allergies and skin sensitivities to wear. Because of its non-toxicity it's also used in dentistry for fillings a true wonder metal!

Zirconium is now a super-hot choice for men to wear as wedding bands or dress rings as black is always at the height of fashion. It has a light heft similar to titanium and when oxidised at high temperatures it turns black from its original grey-white colour and has a ceramic like feel. Zirconium bands will appear at their blackest with a high polish and will look a graphite grey colour when given a satin finish. No matter what the finish, the ideal quality of zirconium is that it's corrosion and scratch resistant which makes it perfect for gentlemen who work in heavy industry or trades.

Another winning quality of zirconium is that it is more malleable and ductile than titanium which means it can be fashioned into more interesting designs as it's easier to work with. It can be finished with decorative scrolls or Roman numerals and can also be set with diamonds if desired.

Zirconium is easy to care for and the best way to clean your ring at home is to soak it in some warm water with a mild soapy detergent, then thoroughly rinse in fresh water and finally polish with a cloth. Please keep in mind that despite being scratch resistant zirconium is not infallible and will show some wear and tear over time.

We currently have a stunning new range of men's zirconium, and zirconium with white, yellow or rose gold rings in our jewellery boutique, in the heart of Sydney's CBD. We invite you to come and have a look so we can assist you in choosing the perfect ring for a gift or wedding ceremony.

For thousands of years gemstones have held a special fascination for humankind. Prehistoric man decorated himself with shells, bones, feathers and sometimes gems in their raw state. The Ancient Egyptians and Sumerians were very sophisticated civilisations that were able to cut and polish gems and fashion them into incredibly intricate jewellery that rivals our modern jewels and still is a source of inspiration.

Historians believe that the concept of birthstones or a particular gem being allocated to each month relates back to Biblical times when the high priest of the Israelites wore the sacred priestly breastplate. This intricate breastplate was adorned with twelve gemstones set in four rows of three gems that were engraved and woven into the fabric of the plate. Twelve different minerals were selected, each one representing one of the twelve tribes of Israel. Scholars argue which minerals were used and it's theorised that they were mostly ornamental stones of lower hardness as they were all engraved.

Over the years the tradition was modified for an allocated gemstone to represent each month. Here we will explore which gemstone classically represents each calendar month and some more modern alternatives as we may not favour our particular assigned birthstone.

JANUARY

The gemstone assigned to January is garnet. This will displease many as most people believe garnets to be rather dull, dark red gems of little value and beauty. In reality, the garnet family is vast and diverse and garnets come in nearly all colours except a true blue. There exceptionally rare garnets that display colour change from teal green to reddish purple and others that display asterism (a mostly four-rayed star) or chatoyancy (a cats-eye effect). Garnets were believed to protect warriors in battle in both Native American Indian cultures and during the Medieval period in Europe. However, if garnets just don't appeal, other birthstones that represent January are rose quartz, emerald (according to Tibetan astrology) and yellow or blue sapphire (according to Jyotish astrology).

FEBRUARY

February is assigned the beautiful purple quartz known as amethyst. Some will be disappointed thinking that amethyst is cheap and abundant unlike ruby or emerald. However, in past times, amethyst was a very rare gem that was highly valued in a similar fashion to ruby, emerald and sapphire. Purple was the colour of royalty and higher consciousness and can be found set into crowns and religious jewels. The ancient Greeks associated amethyst with wine and believed that wearing the gem prevented drunkenness. When the vast deposits of amethyst were discovered in Brazil by German settlers during the 19^th century, the gem sadly lost its value (although on the bright side, it's beautiful and affordable).

Bloodstone is an alternative gem which is very masculine and great for signet rings. If you are an Aquarian ruled by Saturn you can select blue sapphire as your birthstone according to Jyotish astrology.

MARCH

The gemstone associated with March is the highly attractive pale blue-green gemstone known as aquamarine. This beautiful gem reflects the colours of shallow ocean water and is part of the beryl family, which also includes morganite and emerald. Aquamarine can be a very pale soft blue or a richer sky blue. The most prized aquamarines have a natural, saturated blue green colour such as the famous stones mined from Santa Maria, Minas Gerais in Brazil. During Medieval times people believed that aquamarine protected couples in love - no wonder that it's such a popular choice for alternative engagement rings these days. Aquamarine was meant to protect sailors on the high seas and it was even believed that mermaids kept them hidden in their secret treasure troves.

However, if you don't like aquamarine you can choose from jasper or jade (great choices for men!). According to Jyotish astrology those in early March can choose blue sapphire and yellow sapphire for the second half of the month.

APRIL

If you are born in April, you'll be delighted to know that your assigned birthstone is diamond. Few people would be upset by this choice as diamond remains the Western world's most prized gem. Diamond fully deserves its reputation as the king of gems, with a hardness of 10 on the Mohs scale, its powerful dispersion and good tenacity, it is hard wearing and perfect for ring settings. You may be surprised to know that diamonds come in all the colours of the rainbow, including the pastel coloured champagne diamonds. Some diamonds are blue due to traces of boron in the crystal lattice, while others are yellow due to nitrogen. The famous and highly prized pink diamonds from the Argyle mines in Australia are theorised to be coloured due to enormous pressures that cause disruption in the crystal lattice as the gems are pushed up from the Earth's mantle.

If you don't like bling or would like an interesting alternative gem, you could try opal according to Tibetan traditions or precious red coral according to Jyotish astrology.

MAY

The month of May is emerald month. Emeralds have been highly prized by man since the time of Cleopatra and her famous emerald mines. These rare gems have been coveted by royalty for centuries. Emeralds became all the rage when the conquistadores invaded the New World during the 1500s and started pirating the mines at Muzo in Colombia. These emeralds were of much higher quality than the Ancient Egyptian material as they were rich in the transition element chromium, and were a rich, vibrant, velvety green. At first the invaders believed the gems to be harder than diamonds and many were smashed by anvils as they were being tested.

Green is the colour of the heart chakra and is thought to represent love. Emerald was a popular choice for engagement rings before diamonds took off in the 20^th century: Prince Albert presented Queen Victoria with an emerald-set snake design ring upon their engagement in 1840.

Not everyone likes the colour green, so alternative birthstones are rich orange carnelian or diamond (Jyotish astrology).

JUNE

Those born in June have pearls, the most prized of the organic gemstones, as their birthstone. Organic gemstones are created by animals such as molluscs and coral polyps or by plant substances that have gone through processes of carbonisation (jet) or petrification (amber). Pearls have been prized by man since antiquity and until the 20^th century were exceedingly rare as the molluscs take years to produce a pearl and this would be due to the unlikely chance of a parasite entering the animal's outer shell. Divers would be very lucky to find them. These days, nearly all pearls on the market are cultured and farmed by man which means they are accessible to most people. Australia produces the most magnificent silver to white South Sea pearls which are the best in the world. Pearls have a unique luminescent lustre that has often been likened to the light of the moon, thus they are strongly associated with the feminine. Not all pearls are white: there are beautiful golds, greys, blacks and iridescent peacock greens to choose from.

If pearls are too feminine or don't suit you, alternative birthstones are alexandrite, the incredibly rare chrysoberyl which changes colour in different light sources, as well as chalcedony and agates which are more masculine choices.

JULY

Those born in July are allocated the most passionate and sexy gemstone, ruby. Ruby has always symbolised passion and love and has been associated with blood, our life force. In Sanskrit ruby is known as Ratnaraj or king of precious stones. The Hindus believed if they offered fine quality rubies to the god Krishna, they would be granted a position as emperor in their next incarnation. Rubies became associated with love, passion and wealth in Western cultures during the Middle Ages. Few people realise that ruby is part of the corundum family and her sibling is sapphire (which comes in all colours of the rainbow). Ruby is basically aluminium oxide that has been coloured red by chromium. The chromium imparts ruby with a fire-like glow that can look almost neon in sunlight. The most famous rubies are from Mogok in Myanmar, formally known as Burma.

Alternative birthstones are carnelian and onyx which are more affordable and suit both sexes. In Jyotish astrology the allocated birthstone is pearl.

AUGUST

Many born in August dislike their allocated birthstone, the pretty green gem named peridot, which seems a shame as it has a long, interesting history and gem-quality material has even been found in meteorites! Peridot is from the olivine family of minerals and has been associated with light. It was venerated by the Ancient Egyptians who named it gem of the sun. This is perhaps why it has been allocated to August and is associated with the Western astrological sign, Leo, whose ruling cosmic body is the Sun. Peridot owes its verdant green colour to iron and was historically sometimes mistaken for emerald. It's theorised that the emeralds from Cleopatra's mines may have been peridot. Peridot was believed to guard against curses and enchantments and that its powers were at their full potency when set into yellow gold. Many people don't like to wear the colour green, however there are plenty of alternatives to choose from. The Hindus have ruby as the birthstone for August and other choices are onyx and sardonyx. If you believe in Guardian angels, you can choose diamond, which represents the angel Humatiel who is assigned to August.

SEPTEMBER

September is sapphire month so if you have a September birthday you get to wear one of the world's favourite gems as your birthstone. Most people know sapphire as a mid to dark blue gemstone, however sapphires come in all different colours except for red (red corundum is known as ruby!). Sapphires that come in colours beside blue are known as fancy sapphires and the most popular colours are teal, green, pink, yellow and Padparadscha, which is a unique orangey pink sapphire from Sri Lanka, named after the lotus flower. Sapphires can display interesting phenomena such as asterism (usually as a six-pointed star, however some sapphires can display twelve points), colour change (from blue to purple being the most common) and strong colour zoning (these are the parti sapphires which can be strongly banded or zoned in yellows, blues and greens).

Traditionally sapphire has symbolised loyalty, fidelity, faithfulness, nobility and truth, thus these precious gems have adorned the robes of royalty and the priesthood over the centuries. In ancient Greece and Rome it was thought that owning sapphires guarded one from envy and harm, while during the Middle Ages sapphire came to symbolise the heavenly energies. During recent times, the British Royal family has made blue sapphire a popular choice for engagement rings due to the popularity of Princess Diana and now the Katherine, the Princess of Wales. As sapphire has a Mohs hardness of 9, it's incredibly durable and suitable for wearing in a ring setting every day.

If you wanted an alternative to sapphire, you could wear moonstone according to Ayurvedic traditions, or Zircon according to the Hindu birthstone list.

OCTOBER

If your birthday falls in October then you are certainly spoiled for choice when it comes to selecting your birthstone. The two choices are opal and tourmaline, and both of these gems are truly kaleidoscopic!

Opal is one of the rarest and most fascinating gems of all. Australia is blessed with 90% of the finest precious opal including the famous black opal from Lightning Ridge in NSW. Precious black opal has a black body colour and can sometimes display all the spectral colours when viewed from different positions. This kaleidoscopic effect is known as play of colour and is due to the diffraction of light through spheres of silica in the atomic lattice of the gem. Vivid greens and blues are the most common colours, while flashes of red are the rarest. Some precious opals can display distinct patterns such as Harlequin and Chinese Writing.

Tourmaline is the rainbow gem that appears in a myriad of colours. Reds are known as rubellite, teal blues as indicolite and a stunning bi-coloured gem with distinct colour zones of pink and green as watermelon tourmaline. Other colours are golds, browns, blacks, greens, oranges and pinks. The most prized tourmalines of all are known as Paraiba tourmaline. These stunning gems are coloured with traces of copper, which give them a neon-blue through to blue-green colour that is highly prized among collectors. Named after the Paraiba district in Brazil where they are mined, they will knock you out with their beauty.

If neither tourmaline nor opal appeals, you can choose beryl according to Italian traditions or coral according to the Hindu birthstone list.

NOVEMBER

November's birthstone choices are very versatile as they include topaz and the golden quartz called citrine. The topaz family of gems is incredibly versatile with the head of the family being imperial topaz. Imperial topaz is a beautiful, sherry-coloured gem whose rich golden through to orange and pink colours are thought to resemble the setting sun. In 17^th century Russia natural pink topazes were reserved solely for the Tsars, hence the name. They are the rarest and most expensive of the topaz family and the main sources are Ouro Preto in Brazil and the Ural Mountains in Russia.

Topaz also comes in a brilliant range of blues, including a sky blue that is similar to aquamarine; a Swiss blue that is a dazzling electric blue and London blue, which is an uber fashionable dark teal that goes with all colours. Most people love wearing the colour blue so it's a good choice if you are thinking of buying a gift for a November birthday.

If you love yellows and golds, you could select citrine as your birthstone. This popular golden quartz is very affordable and is available in big carat weights perfect for statement cocktail rings. Citrine is found all over the world including Australia, however the most important world source is Brazil. Citrine is thought to be a gem that brings good fortune to business and is known as "the merchant's stone" so also a perfect gift choice that may bring abundance to the lucky recipient.

If none of those appeal, you could consider red coral, carnelian or cat's-eye gems according to Hindu astrology. These three choices are also great for male jewellery pieces.

DECEMBER

If you have a birthstone in December here's hoping that you are keen on the colour blue! Traditionally the allocated birthstone for this month since the Middle Ages has been blue zircon. Zircon is a very under- appreciated natural gemstone that many people confuse with the synthetic gem, cubic zirconia. Zircons have amazing dispersion, which means they can split up white light into its spectral colours in a similar fashion to diamond, hence they have a diamond-like sparkle. It was once thought that wearing blue zircon would promote spiritual growth and wisdom and would result in a peaceful existence. These electric sky blue gems look amazing set in 22k yellow gold.

Turquoise is another December birthstone choice that is very popular with many people. Revered by many Ancient cultures, including the Egyptians, Persians and Aztecs, turquoise is believed to help communicate with the spirit world, promote healing and good fortune. The Native American Indians have used turquoise in their exquisite sterling silver jewellery for centuries, which is now extremely popular and collectible. The stunning bright blue ornamental gems look amazing in shiny sterling silver and really complement summer clothing. Turquoise owes its intense sky blue colour to the transition element copper.

A modern birthstone choice and one that rivals sapphire in the beauty stakes is tanzanite with its dazzling purple/blue pleochroism. The unique appeal of tanzanite was quickly marketed by Tiffany & Co. after being discovered by a Masai tribesman in 1967, in the Merelani district at the foot of Mt Kilimanjaro. Once the bright blue crystals were tested and were diagnosed to be zoisite rather than corundum (sapphire), the named was changed to Tanzanite as zoisite didn't sound very enticing. Tanzanite has quickly become one of the world's most popular coloured gemstone choices and is often flawless in clarity.

If the colour blue just gets you down, you could always try ruby according to Arabic and Hebrew birthstone traditions. Lapis lazuli makes a nice choice for men, as well as traditional turquoise.

November's birthstone choices are very versatile as they include topaz and the golden quartz called citrine. The topaz family of gems is incredibly versatile with the head of the family being Imperial Topaz. Imperial Topaz is a divine sherry coloured gem whose rich golden through to orange and pink colours are thought to resemble the setting sun. In 17^th century Russia natural orange and pink topazes were reserved solely for the Tsars, hence the name. They are the rarest and most expensive of the topaz family and the main sources are Ouro Preto in Brazil and the Ural Mountains in Russia.

Topaz also comes in a brilliant range of blues including a sky blue that is similar to aquamarine; a Swiss blue that is a dazzling electric blue and London Blue, which is an uber fashionable dark teal that goes with all colours. Most people love wearing the colour blue so it's a good choice if you are thinking of buying a gift for a November birthday.

If you love yellows and golds, you could select citrine as your birthstone. This popular golden quartz is very affordable and is available in big carat weights, perfect for statement cocktail rings. Citrine is found all over the world including Australia, however the most important world source is Brazil. Citrine is thought to be a gem that brings good fortune to business and is known as the Merchant's Stone so also a perfect gift choice that may bring abundance to the lucky recipient.

If none of those appeal you could consider red coral, carnelian or cat's-eye gems, according to Hindu astrology. These three choices are also great for male jewellery pieces.

A big jewellery trend at the moment that is totally about female power is the right hand ring. Traditionally women have received rings from male partners as commitment, engagement or wedding rings. These days most women are striving to get ahead in the work force and are earning salaries which reflect their elevated positions. Hard work deserves its rewards and now women are looking to buy themselves an extravagant bejewelled ring of their choice. It's a natural decision to wear to such a ring on the right hand so it won't be mistaken for an engagement or wedding ring. The ring could be celebrating a career milestone, a significant birthday or even a divorce!

The wonderful thing about right hand rings is that there's no conventions to follow. You can go as big and bold as you wish. Statement cocktail rings are all the rage and we have the most desirable designs featuring the most exotic gemstones. Here are three of our favourites.

Our Atlantic ring is pure splendour. It showcases a 6.67 cushion cut indicolite tourmaline set in 18ct white gold with 48 top quality round brilliant cut diamonds. The superb setting has a diamond set open profile which allows maximum light to enter the stone and is gorgeous to admire while wearing. Indicolite tourmaline is very rare and is mostly only found in small stones under one carat, which makes the gemstone set in Atlantic a true marvel.

If you love the divinely feminine then our Orchid ring is for you. This delightful ring features a lovely warm pink 2.02ct pear cut tourmaline set in luscious rose gold sprinkled with sapphires and diamonds. The setting is inspired by the exotic flower its named after and the ring's profile is also set with sapphires and diamonds so it sparkles from all angles. A true beauty!>

If you love simplicity coupled with impact then our Illuminaire ring is just perfect. It's set with a London Blue topaz which is a dreamy deep teal colour which is neutral enough to compliment any colour you wear. This ring is all about the gemstone, and at 20 carats this impressive topaz is a whopper! Rose gold provides a nice foil to cool tones of the gemstone. The topaz has a fine bezel setting and this ring is a contemporary classic that you will love forever.

In Europe the latest trend is to feature lesser known hard gemstones such as agates, ruby in zoisite and rhodochrosite. Set back with more familiar transparent gemstones, they make unique and intriguing combinations.Lizunova has been designing with hard stones since its inception. Mookite (an Australian jasper), Chrysoprase (a translucent chalcedony that rivals jade in its beauty) and Amazonite (a turquoise coloured feldspar) have featured strongly in our collections.

Amazonite with its alluring Verdigris blue to green colour could easily be mistaken for turquoise. It belongs to the feldspar family and its chemical composition is a potassium aluminium silicate. The word feldspar derives from the German words Feld and Spat, which translates as field mineral. Feldspars are incredibly abundant and comprise approximately 54% of the Earth's crust. Australia has deposits of Amazonite in South Australia.

Luckily this abundant mineral family produces exquisite ornamental gems such as Amazonite, with its lovely soft low sheen. The best material has less white mottled through it and a striking turquoise colour. It has a vitreous lustre and is quite hard at 6.5 on the Mohs scale. With its gorgeous vibrant colour it's the perfect gem for accenting a summer wardrobe.

Chrysoprase is becoming increasingly popular as its stunning translucent apple green colour is reminiscent of fine quality imperial green jadeite. In fact, one of its misnomers is Australian Jade. In reality, Chrysoprase is a type of cryptocrystalline chalcedony which is part of the quartz family of minerals. Chalcedony is a form of silica which consists of sub-microscopic fibrous crystals of quartz. It has a vitreous lustre and good hardness at around 7 on the Mohs scale.

Chrysoprase's unique green colour is due to trace quantities of nickel. It looks amazing paired with violet and blue gemstones and can be set in any of the gold colours. Australia is fortunate to have an abundant supply of Chrysoprase and the major localities for mining are The Mount Davies deposits in far northwest South Australia and the Whingellina deposits just over the border in Western Australia.

Another uniquely Australian hard stone is Mookaite Jasper. This stunning multi coloured stone is mined near Mooka Creek  hence the name Mookaite  in the Kennedy Ranges near Carnarvon in Western Australia. Its bold earthy beauty reflects the colours of the Australian desert.

Jasper is another variety of cryptocrystalline silica which is coloured by large amounts of pigments (usually iron oxides). Sometimes the amount of pigment may be as high as 20%, hence the rich strong colours of Mookaite. This stunning ornamental stone would make the ideal gift or memento of a trip to Australia and makes a much more affordable alternative to precious opal.

A princely gem for our times

Spinel is a rare, gem quality oxide mineral with a composition of MgAl₂O₄and is often found in octahedral crystals. Despite being rarer than sapphire, spinel is more affordable. Like sapphire, spinel is a hardwearing stone, making it a great choice of gem to be worn in everyday jewellery, such as engagement rings.

Spinel colours

Spinel occurs in a variety of colours, from white and black, to shades of grey, blue, purple, orange, green, teal and red. Bright red and blue spinel are the most valuable of its colour spectrum. The pure blue coloration of spinel is caused by small quantities of cobalt. Cobalt bearing spinel is rare and highly prized.

Red spinel has been mistaken for ruby over the centuries and some of the most famous rubies in the crown jewels are in fact, red spinels, including the famous Black Prince's Ruby in the Crown of England.

Ruby has received wonderful marketing over the past two centuries which is reflected in its price tag. Spinel was for a time left on the shelf, relegated as a collector's stone. Luckily things are changing and this princely gem is receiving the recognition it deserves. So many rubies are heat treated and fracture filled while the price of pink diamonds is unobtainable for most people. Spinels remain mostly untreated and have an amazing, almost diamond-like sparkle and transparency while most rubies have a cloudiness due to silk and inclusions. There are many world sources and prices are still competitive, however are now rising quickly.

Fine red and blue spinel is more rare than corundum (ruby and sapphire) of equal colour but costs on average 30% less.

Durability

Spinel has excellent hardness (7.5-8 on the Mohs hardness scale) and durability, making it the perfect gem for rings worn daily, such as engagement rings. Like any other precious gem, it should be treated with care, and spinel rings should be removed prior to exposure to harsh chemicals or abrasive surfaces, and tasks such as gardening or gym, where it could get damaged.

Value

Cobalt bearing blue spinel and pure red spinel are the most valuable colours, with bigger gems of vivid colour and high clarity commanding considerable prices. Red spinel is the most expensive red gem next to ruby and the rare red diamond. Bigger gems of high clarity and lustre in blue-grey, grey and pink are also rare and continuing to increase in value.

Sources

Sri Lanka, Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), Vietnam, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Tanzania, Kenya and Madagascar.

Treatments

Unlike sapphire and ruby, spinel is generally not treated.

Synthetics

Spinel has been synthesised for industrial purposes since around 2000. Synthetic spinel looks like glass but has notably higher strength against pressure.The first synthesis of spinel occurred in the 19th century, and in the 1930s synthetic spinel was a popular substitute for a number of natural gems such as aquamarine, emerald, tourmaline and ruby.

Spinel Specifications

Hardness: 7.5-8 Mohs

Specific Gravity: (Depending on the composition) The rare Zn-rich spinel can be as high as 4.40, otherwise it averages from 3.58 to 3.61.

Refractive Index: 1.719

Crystal Form: Octahedra or flat triangular plates caused by twinning

Treatments: None

Special Care: None

Durability: Very good

Image: Lotus earrings with red spinel and peach sapphire by Lizunova Fine Jewels.

Diamonds are the hardest known natural substance known to man. They can cut through any metal or rock and the only way to cut diamond is with another diamond (with the exception of lasers). They are such a popular choice for jewellery as they sparkle more than any other gemstone and due to their exceptional hardness and good durability they make the perfect choice for every day jewellery, such as diamond engagement rings and wedding rings. Due to their top position on the Mohs scale, 10, they can take a very good polish and they are assigned the highest lustre named adamantine, after the Ancient Greek word adamas, which means firm, rigid or unyielding. Clean diamonds are beautiful diamonds! Here are our tips to keep your diamonds clean and looking their best every day.

Diamonds in everyday wear

Diamond has an interesting property named hydrophobia.

Being made of carbon, diamond may be compared to the organic compounds (diamond is elemental carbon). It has one property where it is described as being hydrophobic (a property also possessed by fats, oils, greases and waxes - all organic compounds) where droplets of water bead up on the surface of a diamond, because it has no affinity for water and its surface cannot be made wet by water. This is an important point because the hydrophobic nature of diamond means that this allows fats, oils, greases and waxes to adhere to the surface of the diamond reducing the visible brilliance and fire of the diamond. Anything from sunscreens, moisturisers, make up and oils used in cooking and food preparation can reduce the sparkle, fire and brilliance of diamonds. Even the natural oils and grease from your fingers will adhere to your diamonds thus making regular cleaning inevitable.

It's recommended that one doesn't wear diamond jewellery while preparing food, gardening, performing heavy exercise and showering as oils from hair products and body washes can stick to diamonds and dull their lustre. Fats and oils won't harm your stone, however they will affect your diamond's performance.

Cleaning diamonds at home

Due to diamonds' hydrophobic nature it's necessary to give them a regular clean. This can be done at home with a few simple tools. A simple plan to keep your diamonds sparkling is to soak them once a week in a gentle degreasing solution such as warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap or cloudy ammonia. After the soaking, gently brush with a soft toothbrush that is used exclusively for this purpose. Be sure to get underneath the settings and clean the pavilion facets where oils and dirt can be trapped. Gently rinse in warm water then leave to dry on some clean paper towelling. A hair dryer is a great way to quickly dry jewellery without getting fibres from towels trapped under claw settings.

Precautions

Be careful cleaning jewellery near sinks and open drains. Make sure plugs are securely fitted before rinsing or rinse in a bowl away from drains. Use a rubber sink mat where possible to avoid breakages or knocks to settings if the jewellery is accidentally dropped.

Do not use harsh chlorine based cleaning products (such as household bleach) or abrasives (such as toothpaste) to clean diamond jewellery. These types of harsh cleaners can erode or even dissolve metal resulting in damaged settings or loosened claws. (NB: Do not wear precious metal jewellery in swimming pools or spas as chlorine erodes metal).

Settings check

Check to see if your diamond is still secure in its setting after cleaning, as sometimes dirt accumulation can be the only thing that is still holding a small diamond in place, when a claw has worn away. Gently shake the diamond jewellery piece close to your ear and if you suspect you hear the diamond rattling, take it immediately to your jeweller for inspection.

Other cleaning solutions

There are also good commercial cleaning solutions available to clean diamond jewellery at home. Your local jeweller may sell it or you can visit a jewellery supply store. Normally it's a solution in a small pot that contains a plastic basket. The jewels are dropped into the basket, then lowered into the solution and left to soak for 30 seconds or more depending upon the product. Once the diamonds have soaked, retrieve them and gently clean with a soft brush. Finally rinse them in warm water then dry with a hair dryer. Be careful to read any instructions and only use these solutions for diamonds and perhaps ruby and sapphire. Other gemstones, especially pearls, turquoise and opals can be damaged by these solutions.

If you're passing by your jeweller ask for a quick ultrasonic quick clean. This is normally a free service or a small charge may be incurred for jewellery purchased from other stores. It's also recommended that you get your diamond jewellery cleaned professionally once every 18 months to two years. You'll be delighted to see it all looking brand new again and this is the perfect opportunity to have a jeweller check all your settings and rhodium plate any white gold that may have lost its coating.