Lab grown diamond engagement rings

Lab grown diamonds have been used for industrial purposes since the 1950s and gradually made their way to the jewellery market. Nowadays, natural and lab grown diamonds coexist, accepted by both consumers and the trade. Lab grown diamond engagement rings have been gaining popularity due to their much lower cost and excellent colour, clarity and cut.

With identical looks, hardness and durability to the natural diamond, lab grown diamonds represent better value for money (costing on average 30-40% less than a natural diamond), with couples being able to afford a bigger, better quality stone to set into their engagement ring.

Lab grown diamond (also referred to as synthetic diamonds, man-made diamonds, laboratory-created diamond, or cultured diamonds) is a gemstone made of the same material as its natural counterpart: pure carbon, crystallised in an isotropic 3D form. Lab grown diamonds are not imitation diamonds, which are made of non-diamond material.

Man has attempted to synthesize diamonds since the late 19^th century, however, the first reproducible synthesis of a diamond took place in 1950s in the Soviet Union, United States and Sweden, via the CVD (chemical vapour deposition) and HPHT (high-pressure high-temperature) methods. These two processes still dominate the production of lab grown diamonds today.

The only chemical difference between lab diamonds and natural diamonds is that
most natural diamonds contain tiny amounts of nitrogen, and lab diamonds do not. Of course there is more to a diamond than just its chemical structure. According to professionals with over 50 years of experience in diamond sales, there is energy that sort of speaks to you and can be felt the moment you hold a natural diamond in your hand. However, both lab grown and mined diamonds look identical, and only sophisticated technology can help tell the difference between a natural diamond and its synthetic counterpart.

CVF DIAMONDS

Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVF) method where the diamond is grown from a
Type IIa natural diamond seed. These diamonds have the same chemical
composition and molecular structure as mined diamonds.

Type IIa is the rarest and purest type of natural diamond crystal that sparkles more
and shines brighter, with the least amount of impurities, especially nitrogen.

Less than 2% of all diamonds ever found in nature are Type IIa. Today, the CVF
method allows to buy a bigger, cleaner and Type IIa diamond for the same spend. Like mined diamonds, laboratory grown CVD Type IIa diamonds, have very few higher grade colours, D, E and F colours are very rare - like in nature, there is very little control over the colour.

HTHP DIAMONDS

High Temperature High Pressure (HTHP) method where the diamond is grown from a metal catalyst. HPHT diamonds are made using one of three manufacturing processes: a belt press, a cubic press, or a split-sphere (BARS) press. With HTHP lab grown diamonds, the colour is controlled, thus higher colours are readily available. Larger HTHP lab grown diamonds can contain a metal catalyst and sometimes even stick to a magnet.

The advent of synthetic gems on the market created major concerns in the diamond trading business, as a result of which special spectroscopic devices and techniques have been developed to distinguish synthetic and natural diamonds.

VALUE OF LAB GROWN DIAMONDS

Lab grown diamonds generally cost 30-40% less than mined diamonds, but look
exactly the same. The price difference is for the most part due to the high costs involved in mining and removing tons of earth to find natural gem-quality diamonds.

LAB GROWN DIAMOND SPECIFICATION

Hardness: 10 Mohs
Specific Gravity: 3.417-3.55 (diamond)
Refractive Index: 2.417-2.419
Crystal Form: Cubic
Special Care: None
Durability: Very good

White diamonds: beyond the 4Cs

Interesting facts beyond the 4Cs

Beyond the 4Cs of white diamonds is a multitude of fascinating facts. Despite the fact that diamonds are made of common carbon, there’s something almost supernatural about them. Just the word ‘diamond’ invokes luxury, desirability and toughness. Yet when we think of the element carbon, we are more likely to think of charcoal: soft, black, opaque, earthy, lightweight. In contrast with carbon in its low pressure form as charcoal or graphite, carbon atoms in diamond are fixed together in a strong, three dimensional network. This leads to unique physical properties: diamond is a clear, extremely hard, often colourless mineral with a very high density.

Diamonds sparkle and have internal “fire” because of their very high refractive index. This means light is “caught” inside the crystal and re-reflected off the internal surfaces. Faces and facets made by gem cutters accentuate this property.

Diamond is the hardest known substance, the greatest conductor of heat, has the highest melting point of any substance (4090°C or 7362°F), and the highest refractive index of any natural mineral. Diamond measures 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, and is approximately 4 times harder than corundum (sapphire and ruby), which is 9 on the Mohs scale.

Formation of diamonds

Diamonds form deep within the Earth under extreme heat and pressure.

Although diamonds have been prized as valuable gems for a long time, until the early 1700s virtually all traded diamonds came from river gravels (known as “alluvial deposits”) in India. Then in the early 18th century diamonds were discovered in Brazil, and from 1866 onwards were mined in South Africa. It was in this country that diamonds' major, violently erupted, volcanic source rock known as “kimberlite” was identified for the first time.

This recognition fundamentally changed the diamond exploration and mining industry, and quickly led to vastly increased production and to the high demand from the modern jewellery industry. Supply of diamonds to the market has long been tightly controlled by a small number of major producers – examples include De Beers (South Africa-Botswana), Al Rosa (Russia), Rio Tinto (Argyle Mine Australia and Canadian mines), Lucara Diamond Corporation (Karowe Mine, Botswana), and the Diavik kimberlite pipe in northern Canada.

Diamond colour

Most diamonds are brown or yellow in colour. The jewellery industry has favoured colourless diamonds (commonly referred to as white diamonds) or those that have a colour so subtle that it is difficult to notice. Diamonds in vivid natural hues of red, orange, green, blue, pink, purple, violet or yellow form a group of Fancy Colour diamonds. They are extremely rare and valuable.

Durability

Diamond is the hardest-known mineral, measuring 10 on the Mohs hardness scale. However, the hardness of diamond is directional. It is hardest parallel to its octahedral planes and softest parallel to its cubic planes.

The value of diamonds

Unlike other mined commodities such as copper, gold, oil or coal, diamond has no spot market. Its value is variable and highly subjective, assessed using the 4Cs system: colour, clarity, cut and carat (5 carat = 1 gram). Per carat, uncut diamond values typically vary from around $US10 to $US3,000. Very large (sometimes very historical) gem-quality diamonds however may command price orders of magnitude beyond this. Until 1950s, there was no agreed-upon standard by which diamonds could be judged. GIA (Gemological Institute of America) created the first, and now globally accepted 4Cs standard for describing diamonds.

Clues about diamond origins

Many diamonds contain inclusions of other minerals, which are captured samples from the deep Earth rocks in which the diamond grew. These provide important information for geologists. For example, inclusions of the minerals olivine, pyroxene and garnet tell us their host diamonds grew at depths between about 120 and 300km, in a layer of the Earth known as the sub-continental lithospheric mantle.

This layer is part of the Earth’s continental tectonic plates, and lies below the oldest regions of Earth’s continental crust known as “cratons”. Cratons are up to 4 billion years old – examples include the Australian Pilbara, the South African Kaapvaal, the Canadian Slave and the Russian Siberian craton.

Blue diamonds deep, deep down

Although the sub-continental lithospheric mantle is the most common source of diamonds, some come from much deeper layers in the Earth. These are called sub-lithospheric diamonds, and identified by mineral inclusions consistent with being exposed to much higher pressures found at depths of more than 650km.

A recent study looked at a type of rare blue diamond like the Hope Diamond. The researchers consistently detected very high pressure mineral inclusions indicating their diamond hosts grew at depths of at least 660km. These diamonds are blue because of the presence of trace amounts of the element boron.

The question of how boron ended up at great depths in the Earth’s mantle is a fascinating one. Boron is an element that on Earth is highly concentrated in the upper continental crust (less than 20km deep) and in ocean water. Its concentration in deeper mantle rocks is typically extremely low. Boron then must have been re-introduced to the deep layers where the diamonds grew.

This would likely have happened through a process called deep subduction, where the boundary of an oceanic tectonic plate (about 100km thick) fails, and the plate then collapses into the deep Earth’s mantle. This moves boron and other materials from the shallow layers of the Earth down into depths of over 700km. Here the boron is supplied to the growing ultra-high pressure sub-lithospheric diamonds. Kimberlite eruptions then bring the diamonds up towards the surface.

A window into deep Earth

In addition to the boron example above, evidence from other diamond mine sites also supports the idea that Earth elements move from relatively shallow to deeper into the Earth through the process of subduction.

This has been detected by tracking different forms of carbon in diamonds from the South African Cullinan mine, and mineral inclusions in South Australian diamonds.

Deep parts of the Earth still have a physical connection with layers closer to the surface. So yes diamonds are valuable due to being beautiful, hardy and relatively rare – but they also provide a fantastic window into the structure and the history of our Earth.

Diamond sources

Angola, Australia, Botswana, Namibia, Russia, South Africa, Zaire. Major cutting centres of diamonds are in Antwerp, Bombay, New York, Tel Aviv.

Synthetics

Lab-grown or synthetic diamonds are a complete copy of a natural diamond that contain the same crystal lattice structure and chemical formula as a natural diamond.

To form a diamond crystal, the element carbon is placed under high pressure and the temperature of the surface of the Sun. Another way to form a synthetic diamond would be through a chemical vapour deposition where a small seed of a diamond crystal is grown layer by layer in a chamber.

Identification of a natural diamond from a synthetic diamond requires specialised equipment. The nature of inclusions in a natural diamond differs from the types of inclusions found in a synthetic diamond. Not all inclusions are easily visible through the naked eye or by using a loupe.

Lab grown diamonds are inscribed with letters “LG” at the base of the stone.

Imitations

Cubic Zirconia, Moissanite, Swarovski Crystal.

Specifications

Hardness: 10 Mohs

Specific Gravity: 3.417-3.55

Refractive Index: 2.417 -2.419

Crystal Form: Cubic. Diamond crystals occur well shaped as octahedra, cubes, rhombic dodecahedral and macles. Diamond is found in igneous rock formations and alluvial deposits.

Treatments: Annealing, Irradiation, High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT), laser drilling, fracture filling, coating.

Special Care: None

Durability: Very good

Choosing the right diamond for you

When it comes to choosing a diamond for your engagement ring or a piece of bespoke jewellery, the multitude of factors and nuances can make the process rather overwhelming, as there is a significant emotional and financial cost involved. We are here to make it easy and take away the stress! We will be happy to help you select the right diamond from our extensive local and international networks of ethical suppliers, and deliver not only a stunning ring you will be delighted with, but also the best value for money. Feel free to email us to enquire, or book a complimentary bespoke diamond engagement ring appointment with us.

Image and ring: lizunova.com

Opal

OPAL TYPES AND COLOURS

There are two main types of opal – precious and common. Precious opal displays iridescence, or play of colour, due to the diffraction of light off the tiny, closely packed silica spheres in the atomic lattice of the gem. Common opal does not possess iridescence due to its silica spheres being random in shape, size and arrangement.

Opal forms in sedimentary rocks or where low temperature solutions bearing silica can percolate through rocks becoming rich in dissolved silicates. Depending on the conditions in which it formed, opal may be transparent, translucent, or opaque and the background colour may be white, black, or nearly any colour of the visual spectrum. Black opal is considered to be the rarest, whereas white, grey and green are the most common.

Precious opal is one of the rarest gems on our planet. Australia is blessed with 90% of the finest precious opal including the famous black opal from Lightning Ridge in NSW. Precious black opal has a black body colour and can sometimes display all the spectral colours when viewed from different positions. Vivid greens and blues are the most common colours, while flashes of red are the rarest. Some precious opals can display distinct patterns such as “Harlequin”, with close set broad patches of colour resembling a mosaic with angular play of colour, and “Chinese Writing”, resembling Asian script, usually in gold and green.

Precious crystal opal from Andamooka, South Australia. Image: Lizunova Fine Jewels.

Opals are commonly cut as cabochons with freeform shapes. This is accepted practice and a result of the cutter wanting to maximise the opal and the colour play found in the rough material. The play of colour and shapes make each opal unique.

Precious black opal from Lightning Ridge (NSW, Australia) set in a gold ring with Ceylon sapphires. Ring and image: Lizunova Fine Jewels.

SOURCES OF OPAL

Precious black opal: Australia (Lightning Ridge, NSW), precious white opal: Australia (Coober Pedy, Andamooka, SA). Opals are also found in Mexico, Brazil, US (Nevada and Idaho), Ethiopia, Honduras, Indonesia, Japan, Peru and Russia.

PRICING OPALS

Opals are all about colour, so the better and more even the colour, the higher the value of the opal. A good stone should have colour spread across the entire surface, with no blank patches.

OPAL CARE

Opals are more delicate than some other gems, e.g. diamonds or sapphires, but well worth the extra care. Solid opal should be cleaned gently with mild detergent in lukewarm water and a soft toothbrush or cloth. Avoid bleach, chemicals, pool chlorine and harsh detergents. Opal is heat sensitive and should never be cleaned in ultrasonic cleaners. As with any other precious gem, avoid wearing opal jewellery where it will get rough treatment, such as gym or gardening. Best to remove opal jewellery before showering and applying creams and perfumes to protect your gem.

SPECIFICATIONS

Hardness: 5.5-6.5 Mohs
Specific Gravity: 1.96-2. 5.
Refractive Index: 1.37-1.47
Cleavage: None
Dispersion: Very low

Sources: gemsociety.org, lizunova.com, The Jeweller’s Directory of Gemstones, Judith Crowe

Parti Sapphires

A gem of choice for engagement rings, sapphire has been enjoying great popularity with couples here in Australia and worldwide due to its beauty, uniqueness and durability. Sapphire is part of the most important gem family, corundum, which also includes ruby. Both sapphire and ruby have consistently risen in value and popularity, due to their beauty, durability and versatility.

Sapphires naturally occur in a rainbow of colours: blue, teal, black, white (colourless), grey, orange, pink, green, purple and yellow, and parti (short from partition) or bi-colour.

Parti Sapphire Colours

Most parti sapphires are blue green, blue yellow or blue yellow green, however they also occur in combinations of purple, orange and pink. The same elements make up parti sapphire as other corundum (aluminium oxide Al₂0₃) but the trace elements present in the growing process give each stone its unique colours.

Bi-colour or parti sapphires occur in Australia as well as Africa (Madagascar, Tanzania and Nigeria).

Australian parti sapphires are from alkali-basalt related deposits and are very rich in iron content. Presence of iron and titanium gives sapphire its blue colour. The colour in Australian green sapphire is typically made up of a mixture of yellow and blue coloured banding within the crystal mixing to produce green. When some of these yellow and blue banded sapphire crystals are cut suitably, stones know as parti can be created. In some parti sapphires, colour zoning can be distinct and in others, more blended.

Parti sapphires are so special as each stone has a unique combination of zoning and banding. The colour zoning seen in parti sapphires relates to the growth layers of a crystal, and appears as a series of concentric hexagons parallel to the prismatic crystal faces.

Durability Of Parti Sapphires

Corundum family, which parti sapphire is a member of, is the hardest, most durable gemstone type after diamond and measures 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it a popular choice for jewellery worn every day, such as engagement rings. Despite their durability, we should protect them like any other precious stone, and remove sapphire jewellery before engaging in heavy work, such as gardening or construction, or work that would expose your sapphire to harsh chemicals.

Parti Sapphire Value

The rarity of parti sapphires makes them valuable, especially bigger stones, and stones with brighter colours. Compared to Ceylon blue or Padparadscha sapphire though, parti sapphire is exceptionally good value and its price keeps increasing.

Blue green peacock parti sapphire, Sydney jeweller Lizunova Fine Jewels

This remarkable 5.5ct cushion cut parti sapphire displays shades of green, teal and blue. Parti sapphires of this size and colour are very rare. Image: Lizunova Fine Jewels

Sources Of Parti Sapphire

While sapphires are most commonly sourced from Africa (Tanzania, Nigeria, Madagascar, Kenya, Malawi), Brazil, Myanmar (Burma), Pakistan (Kashmir), Sri Lanka, Thailand and United States (Montana), many of the unique parti and green sapphires hail from Australia (Queensland and New South Wales).

Australia produced a large quantity of sapphires in the 1970s. Today, Australian sapphire mining is much smaller in scale, and, most commonly, it is individual miners working on their claim. The cost and complications of sapphire mining have ensured good quality Australian sapphires are much more scarce.

Bespoke-emerald-cut-sapphire-diamond-French-pave-engagement-ring-platinum-Lizunova-Fine-Jewels-Sydney-jeweller-6

This emerald radiant cut Australian parti sapphire, set into a bespoke engagement ring, displays the classic yellow and blue colours, mixing into green tones at certain angles. Image: Lizunova Fine Jewels

Treatments

Heating sapphires is a common treatment that lightens or intensifies colour, improves uniformity and enhances clarity. Gentle heating in a kiln removes or dissolves any silky rutile inclusions in a sapphire back into the matrix of the stone. Heating does not damage the sapphire and is a lasting treatment that does not wear off with time.

Synthetics

Parti sapphire is the only stone that labs can’t synthesise, due to the patchy colour pattern.

Sapphire Specifications

Hardness: 9 Mohs

Specific Gravity: 3.95-4.03 (sapphire)

Refractive Index: 1.760-1.774

Crystal Form: Trigonal. Sapphire crystals occur as barrel-shaped, double-pointed hexagonal pyramids and tabloid shapes. Corundum is found in igneous and metamorphic rocks and also in alluvial deposits.

Treatments: Heating

Special Care: None

Durability: Very good

Custom engagement rings with parti sapphires

We love working with this beautiful, truly unique gemstone, especially when it's selected for a bespoke engagement ring. We have a handpicked collection of beautiful parti and teal sapphires in all colours, sizes and shapes, and if needed can source a specific sapphire for your bespoke engagement ring. Appointments are available for you to view our sapphires in person or online, where we can talk you through all aspects of the design process.

Check out our ready to wear parti sapphire engagement rings, or book an appointment with us to view our selection of beautiful loose sapphires, and begin creating your bespoke engagement ring with one of these beauties.

Image: Lizunova Fine Jewels

Sources: The Jeweller’s Directory of Gemstones, Judith Crowe; OAGems.com

How to find the right jeweller for my engagement ring?

Choosing an engagement ring or finding the right jeweller to create a custom ring, can be overwhelming. There are so many things to consider, such as the centre stone (a more traditional white diamond or an alternative gemstone?), gold colour and ring design. In addition, in Sydney where Lizunova Fine Jewels is based, there are hundreds of jewellers to choose from, and each one says they are the best!

Commissioning a custom engagement ring or a wedding ring that carries so much meaning is a big decision. For many people, it’s the biggest sum they will spend on a single piece of jewellery in their lifetime. Ultimately, you want to trust that the jeweller who is making your ring is a good designer, a skilled craftsman and will be there to provide a warranty and great after sales service. It’s a good idea to not only see online but also touch and hold the rings they have previously made – jewellery can look amazing in carefully photographed and retouched images but does it come up to scratch when inspected closely? If you are buying online, I would recommend requesting videos of a ring or a gemstone shot in natural daylight. If you are able to visit the jeweller in person, it's a good idea to look closely at the quality of the rings: the neatness and symmetry of settings and quality of metal and craftsmanship.

Five Questions To Ask A Jeweller

Some of the things to look out for, and questions to ask to help you find the right jeweller for your engagement ring, are:

Where is the jewellery made and by whom? Is it ethically crafted by a local jeweller or made in a factory off shore? Cheaper ring settings mass produced overseas are not the same as high quality rings made by small local artisans who care about their craft and will stand by their quality and look after your ring over the years to come. At Lizunova we are passionately committed to ethical, local manufacturing, valuing quality craftsmanship above all else.
Is the ring made of new or recycled gold or platinum? Recycled gold sounds romantic (and even more sustainable), but if it's essentially just gold melted down from second hand jewellery, steer clear. Without a specialised lab analysis, it's impossible to prove that your recycled gold ring is 18 karat and contains 75% pure gold. In addition, metal in second hand jewellery has unknown alloy composition, meaning it might contain something that irritates your skin (e.g. nickel which some people are allergic to). We work with high quality, new precious metals only, produced by local, specialised, sustainable manufacturers out of a mix of newly mined and refined recycled metal.
Is sufficient metal used in the ring shank and gem setting to last 30 or more years? Thin bands might be on trend but will not wear well over time – metal thins out with wear, especially at the base of the ring shank. Dainty bands that don't have enough metal will bend and warp with wear, and any diamonds or gemstones set into them may become loose and fall out as settings become compromised when a ring gets bent out of shape. At Lizunova we insist on using sufficient metal in our ring settings to ensure your ring is strong and will wear well over the years.
Stone settings need to have enough metal in them to hold your diamonds or sapphires secure through daily wear and tear - dainty claws might look aesthetically pleasing to start with but may not last the distance. We aim for optimal claw thickness which is a balance of durability and aesthetics.
Is there a valuation, a warranty and after sales service? All Lizunova pieces come with a valuation which is sufficient for insurance, a voluntary manufacturer's warranty and complimentary after sales service. We stand by our quality.

It’s also always a good idea to read a jeweller's testimonials or Google reviews to see what previous clients think of their work and customer service.

Going direct to a manufacturing jeweller

If you go direct to a manufacturing jeweller, you’re relying on their aesthetic sense, ingrained way of designing jewellery and their ability to understand and translate your ideas to a finished piece. They have a different approach and motivation to those of a jewellery designer, and while it may save you some money going direct to a manufacturing jeweller, I would recommend finding a great jewellery designer, whose style and work you love. A jewellery business led by good design would provide an in-depth understanding of many factors involved in creating the perfect ring, not the least of which is collaborating with you in such a way that you end up with the ring you are delighted with.

Is it a good idea to buy an on-trend engagement ring?

Trends come and go. You’re going to have this ring for the rest of your life, so we think it’s a good idea to steer away from fashion and choose a design that’s stylish, well thought-out and timeless.

If I go with a custom ring, how do I ensure I like the end result?

The advantages of having a bespoke ring designed and made especially for you is that, if you pick the right designer, you will have a beautiful ring that’s unique to you and expresses your personality and your love story. To ensure you’re getting exactly what you envisage, you need to be given very clear and precise, to-scale design sketches that show the ring from three angles – top view, and two side views. You also need to see and hold the stone that is going to be set into your ring and see what it looks like on your skin.

We like to work with modern technology that allows us to create 3D colour drawings as well as a to-scale 3D printed wax model of your ring you can try on – so there are no surprises when you receive your finished ring.

Are diamond wholesalers and online only jewellers okay?

A real diamond wholesaler doesn't sell to the general public, and sells only to trade - jewellers and jewellery designers. The so-called diamond wholesalers who sell direct to public are actually retailers. These businesses are typically volume based and their interest does not lie with beautiful design. You may pay less but end up with a ring that is a replica of a hundred other rings, made without soul or attention to detail. Oftentimes, these rings are made overseas due to lower manufacturing cost.

While it's fine to buy online from a reputable jeweller, if you have a chance to try on a ring in person, it would be a good investment of time to do so. If visiting in person is not an option, we recommend having a video appointment, so you can get a sense of the person you will be working with and ask any questions. If selecting a stone online, we recommend requesting to see videos and photos of the stone taken in natural daylight as well as indoor light, as gems can often look different in different lighting conditions.

Jewellery is an intensely personal purchase. We believe it’s about connecting with your jeweller, or falling in love with a particular stone. There are many talented independent jewellers, and we believe there’s a right one out there for everyone. Someone you are comfortable with creating your most important piece of jewellery – connection and trust are vital ingredients in a successful relationship between a client and a jeweller.

We would be happy to talk to you about pros and cons of different gemstones, diamond selection or engagement ring design in person or via a video appointment. Drop us a line, call 02 9221 1900 or book a bespoke engagement ring design appointment.

Rhapsody in teal

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT

“The sense of excitement was almost overwhelming. I just had to hold the mysterious gem, sparkling blue-green in the gem dealer’s hand. It was cool to touch, its oval form as big as a small egg. My nervous fingers held it gingerly while I admired its magnificent sparkle and flashes of colour,” Lizunova Fine Jewels founder, jewellery designer Maria Lizunova recalls. “I fell in love with it almost instantly.”

What could it possibly be? At 109 carats, it was way too big to be an indicolite tourmaline, which are as rare as hen’s teeth in sizes above 1 carat. Matthew, Lizunova’s trusted Sydney gem dealer, finally broke the suspense, “It’s a London topaz, but this colour – it’s a miracle, in all my years of travelling the world and scouring gem fairs, I’ve never seen anything like it.”

A RARE GEM

Natural blue topaz can vary in colour from very pale to inky blue, called London Blue, the most valuable of this spectrum. Topaz also naturally occurs in white and amber colours, the latter, Imperial topaz, is highly prized. Blue topaz never crosses into the green spectrum, and this teal-coloured wonder is a true freak, or gift, of nature.

A cherished possession in Matthew’s mother’s personal collection, it was bought over 20 years ago on a whim – she simply could not resist its highly unusual colour. This enigmatic gem would emerge from time to time to be shown off at gem fairs and trade shows as a showpiece, on the condition it would not be sold. Finally, after years of pleading by her son, she agreed to part with it on one condition, that it would be sold to a jeweller who would set the gem into a design worthy of it.

A MASTER GEM CUTTER STEPS IN

Lizunova decided to change the gem from its original cut, a commercial oval with a typical diamond checkerboard, to something much more contemporary and crisp. Cue Doug Menadue, a renowned Sydney gem cutter - a true gem connoisseur and a master of his craft. He was beyond excited at the opportunity to transform this rare gem.

“I was as thrilled about the opportunity to work with Doug as I was about buying the stone. I have admired Doug’s work for years, and all the gems he cuts bear his unmistakable signature – they’re crisp, contemporary and very beautiful,” says Lizunova.

For Menadue gems and gem cutting are a true passion. Taking a leap to pursue his passion for gemmology and stone cutting, Menadue ended a 20-year career in IT to explore and hone his knowledge in the gem field. His craftsmanship is second to none and every gem he cuts often surpasses expectations, highlighting the beauty of each gem he touches. After much deliberation, Menadue designed a cut especially for this remarkable gem, to optimize light and accentuate the vibrant colour. The new, crisp rectangular octagonal cut, named Rhapsody Lizunova Variation, brings out the best of this magnificent gem, with strong flashes of teal throughout its beautiful, 68.6 carat form. The definition of rhapsody is an ecstatic or enthusiastic expression of emotion, and the newly recut gem truly lives up to its name, inspiring awe and emotion in all who see it.

A BESPOKE JEWEL

“We are so excited to hold this beauty in our gem collection,” says Lizunova. “The minute I had it back from Doug, I was sketching ideas for setting it. I would love it to be a cocktail ring, as topaz is 8 on a Mohs hardness scale. Imagine it in platinum or white gold and diamonds! It would take one brave lady to wear such a large cocktail ring though, so I also sketched ideas for a pendant necklace. The bespoke designs respond to the lines of the Rhapsody cut and would make a truly magnificent, one of a kind jewel.”

Lizunova has a true appreciation for design, with a career in graphic design and art direction spanning over 15 years. For her, just like for Menadue, gemstones and jewellery design are a true passion, worth a radical career change later in life. Similarly to Menadue, Lizunova is self taught, with a truly fresh, contemporary approach to jewellery design.

The brand is fiercely loyal to local, ethical craftsmanship, and uses Australian-made gold, silver and platinum in its designs, with hand-picked gemstones, ethically sourced from local, Sydney gem dealers, front and centre.

“We invite you to view Rhapsody in our boutique. It is a true masterpiece, where natural providence meets craftsmanship.”

8 alternatives to diamond in contemporary engagement rings

As a bespoke jeweller specialising in contemporary engagement rings, we have been seeing a trend away from the traditional diamond as an engagement ring centre stone. Diamond is still a classic and beautiful choice, but we are seeing that couples are casting their net wider in search of personal self expression, beauty and value that coloured gemstones provide. Not all gems are suitable for every day wear and tear, such as an engagement or a wedding ring, due to their lesser durability. Here we look at 8 alternatives to diamond in contemporary engagement rings, and their pros and cons.

Diamond engagement ring trend

Diamonds are durable and beautiful engagement ring centre stone. Popularised in the 1940s by the famous De Beers advertising campaigns 'Diamonds are a girl's best friend' and 'Diamonds are forever', diamonds have until recently been the go-to as an engagement ring centre stone. However, coloured gems such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires were the preferred choice for engagement rings since the dawn of time, and diamonds are a relatively recent addition, with diamond engagement rings coming into vogue from the early 20th century.

The return of coloured gems in engagement rings

There has been a rising trend of alternatives to the more traditional diamond in engagement rings over recent years. The unrivalled expression of individuality that a coloured gemstone engagement ring provides along with the unexpected wow factor and the ubiquity and high cost of diamonds have ensured that more and more couples are choosing to step away from the tradition. While a diamond engagement ring will always be the classic choice, there is a plethora of exciting and more affordable gemstones that can provide greater impact at a lower cost. Not all coloured gemstones are a suitable choice for engagement rings though, with durability and hardness being important aspects in choosing the right stone. Here are our top 7 coloured gemstone alternatives to ditch the traditional diamond, for a truly individual, stand-out engagement ring.

1. Parti Sapphire 9 Mohs

Parti sapphires, including beautiful gemstones from Australia, are loved by couples looking for a unique coloured gem for their engagement ring. Featuring bands or areas of colour such as blue, green, teal and yellow, these beautiful gems recall the colours of the Australian landscape: gum, wattle and deep blue sky. Parti sapphires in oval, octagon, round, pear and emerald cuts are all fabulous engagement ring gemstone choices, either paired with diamonds or on their own, such as solitaire ring designs. Side or accent diamonds, such as kite shaped, trillion, pear cut, baguette or round can look spectacular in engagement rings, accentuating parti sapphire's unique beauty. A durable gem with a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, ideal for everyday pieces such as engagement rings, parti sapphire is here to stay. As each parti sapphire is unique, you can be assured that an engagement ring with this stone would also be a truly unique one. Parti sapphires are yet to be synthesized, so you can be assured that this unique gem is sure to be the real deal.

A beautiful cushion cut Australian parti sapphire with classic yellow-blue-green colour mix Australian partis are famous for.

2. Salt and pepper diamond

Possessing all the qualities of a white diamond, but with unrivalled personality, salt and pepper diamonds have become a popular choice for engagement rings. Each stone is completely unique due to its distinctive markings, or internal inclusions, some of which look like a whole galaxy inside a stone. Measuring 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, salt and pepper diamonds are durable and suitable for everyday wear, eg in engagement rings. They also come in a variety of cuts and shapes and are a fraction of the price of white diamonds.

3. Grey Spinel 8 Mohs

Grey spinel is the ultimate stone for those who have an eye for the refined and mysterious. This stunning gem comes in an assortment of tones from a silvery lavender to a deeper, warmer shade of charcoal. These warm and cool tones mean there is a grey spinel to match a variety of skin tones. A rose gold setting is perfect for picking up the warm tones of the stone. White gold enhances the cool tones found in the more violet spinels, creating a sleek sophisticated feel. Black or white diamonds set in the band of the ring would accentuate or contrast with the stone. Despite being rarer than sapphire, spinel is more affordable. Like sapphire, spinel is a hardwearing stone, with a rating of 8 on the Mohs scale, which makes it a great choice of gem to be worn every day.

4. Blue and Fancy Colour Sapphire 9 Mohs

Customarily, blue sapphire represents nobility, wisdom, honesty and faithfulness. It has been incorporated into the traditional dress of royalty and the clergy for centuries. Sapphires are strong and durable, with a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, and diverse, occurring in a dazzling array of colours from white to deepest, almost black, and blue. Due to their strength, sapphires have been considered a very practical choice for engagement rings. The stunning blue sapphire in Princess Diana's (now Kate Middleton's) engagement ring sparked a spike in blue sapphire engagement ring popularity. Pink sapphires can be a vibrant or subdued tone, a feminine flair that can be complemented by diamond accents in the ring design. Shades of gold, from champagne and peach to pale yellows, to deep, vibrant oranges, look exquisite set into rose or yellow gold, which picks out the warm tones, or white gold, to accentuate the cooler shades.

This Australian blue sapphire has unique natural 'silk' markings within the stone. Image: Lizunova Fine Jewels

5. Morganite 7.5-8 Mohs

Morganite is part of the beryl family, which also includes emerald and aquamarine. Being 7.5-8 on the Mohs hardness scale makes Morganite a great choice for a ring worn every day like an engagement ring would be. Morganite comes in a variety of pink-tone pastels, from peach to salmon to blush pink. A rose gold setting would pick out and intensify the softer peach tones. This feminine colour brings a subtle warm tone to a ring, which makes it perfect for anyone who wants subtlety over a statement colour. Much like a nude pair of heels, these soft pinks match the colours found in a sophisticated fashion-savvy wardrobe and go with everything. Due to the delicate colour palette, a larger stone would not look overbearing when worn as an engagement ring. Dubbed the love stone, morganite is said to have the metaphysical properties of attracting and maintaining love, making it a beautiful choice for a ring symbolising love and commitment.

6. Aquamarine 7.5-8 Mohs

Cool and calm, this beautiful stone is leading the pack when it comes to engagement ring takeovers. Much like morganite, the subtle colour of aquamarine is very attractive for those who prefer delicacy over a drastic difference to the popular diamond. The pale ocean tones range from a greenish blue to a deeper more vibrant blue hue. These tones can be accentuated with different metals and due to the cool tone, suit most skin tones. If your partner is an ocean lover, surfer, or sailor, this gem would directly link back to their connection with the water. The name aquamarine is Latin, aqua meaning water and marine meaning sea. An aquamarine engagement ring is a wonderful way to start off wedding planning, by ticking something blue off the list straight away.

7. Champagne Diamond 10 Mohs

What better way to celebrate than with champagne! Start your beautiful married life off with an elegant style choice using a champagne diamond as your statement stone. The wonderful thing about champagne diamonds is the hardness is not compromised by the colour. A more affordable alternative to the traditional white diamond, champagne diamonds come in the same variety of cuts and shapes that white diamonds do, allowing you to create a truly individual ring. The warm hues range from a subtle antique off-white, through to a darker cognac. For contrast, pair the stone with white diamond accents to accentuate the warm tones. A setting of rose gold helps to create a feminine feel.

8. Pink and red spinel 8 Mohs

Dazzling, fiery hot and electric. Did we just describe your love journey with your partner? Red and pink spinel is the perfect stone for an exciting, lively engagement ring. In some cases, the pink tone can be described as almost neon. This gem gets its vibrant colour from chromium, the same chemical that gives ruby its red colour. One of the most famous examples is the so-called Black Prince's Ruby, set in the Imperial State Crown of England and displayed in the Tower of London. Thought to be a ruby for centuries, the gem was analyzed in recent years and found to be, in fact, a red spinel. Edward, Prince of Wales, the Black Prince, received the stone in 1367 as payment for his aid to put down a revolt against the King of Spain. The Black Prince's Ruby outlasted them all, surviving fires attempted theft, and World War II bombing raids. With all this history, it seems as though spinel may be a good luck charm.

This baguette cut pink spinel would suit an engagement ring design with clean Art Deco lines. Image: Lizunova Fine Jewels

The ferocity of this colour allows room for additional statement colours for an even more, fun and vibrant look. Paired with a black gemstone, such as black spinel, black diamond or onyx, this stone reaches a new level of feminine style. Pink spinel suits a setting in any gold colour, with the rose or yellow gold accentuating its warm hues. The best quality pink spinels are sourced from Tanzania, Africa. Vivid, clear and sparkling red spinels are a wonderful alternative to the often milky and included ruby. With a Mohs scale rating of 8, this stone is durable enough to be worn every day. Paired with a well-considered setting, a spinel ring would be a wonderful piece to be appreciated by generations to come.

There are so many wonderful options for your bespoke engagement ring, from diamonds to coloured gemstones, that it can be tricky to know who to trust and how to make the right choices for your engagement ring, this most significant of jewels. We are happy to talk through the many different options of diamonds, gems and settings, to ensure you get the best value for money and the best design you will cherish for the rest of your life. To arrange a complimentary design consultation, drop us a line.

Same sex wedding and engagement ring guide

Australia has become the 26th country to legalise same-sex marriage. The law was passed on Thursday, December 7th, 2017 and since Tuesday, January 9th, 2018, same-sex marriages are now legally recognised. This is a historic victory for the LGBT community as it undoes the last major piece of discrimination against this sector of Australian citizens. In celebration of this momentous occasion, Lizunova Fine Jewels wishes to share our engagement/wedding/commitment ring guide for same-sex couples.

1. Unity – This simple yet timeless design encapsulates the union of two people. The two bands converge to symbolise a couple coming together in a loving relationship. This ring can be made in any gold colour or platinum, with the gemstones of your choice. For example, two diamonds of different colours or two gemstones which are the birthstone of each partner.

2. Galaxy – If you have a taste for the flamboyant then Galaxy would be the perfect ring for you. The stunning knife edge band, 5mm wide, is sprinkled with an impressive 0.8ct of pave set diamonds. A single band can symbolise the engagement or commitment and then can be stacked with a second band for the wedding ceremony, becoming Twin Galaxy. Gold colours can be mixed or matched, as well as black with white diamonds to make a bold statement.

3. Black Zirconium – If you’re seeking rings with understated chic and masculinity then our range of black zirconium rings would be ideal. Zirconium is a highly durable, hypoallergenic, corrosion resistant and light material not too dissimilar from titanium. The metal is originally greyish in tone, then is oxidised to give it a black finish. You can choose from plain zirconium or zirconium with inners of precious metals such as 18ct rose, white or yellow gold or platinum.

4. Half Moon – If you prefer clean, architectural lines free from filigree then Half Moon will suit your taste. This strikingly elegant ring was inspired the energy and sass of New York City and features a single baguette diamond set in an asymmetric geometric setting. It makes a unique and contemporary engagement ring. A simple diamond set wedding band slipped underneath looks beautiful.

5. Manhattan – If you like a more delicate engagement ring that isn’t overly complex and has clean, geometric style then Manhattan is perfect for you. This ring juxtaposes a baguette cut aquamarine with a round brilliant cut diamond. Naturally the gemstone selection is yours to choose. All diamonds would look superb as would sapphire and diamond in a yellow gold setting. Manhattan also looks wonderful stacked with a simple diamond set wedding band that sits flush underneath.

6. Empire State – We love rings with two feature gemstones and Empire State has the winning combination of cornflower blue sapphire and Colombian emerald. The two main gems can be selected to symbolise two people in a committed relationship which gives this ring a highly personal feel. It’s a super alternative engagement ring and looks very stylish paired with an elegant diamond set wedding band.

7. Grey Spinel Engagement ring - If you have fashion forward tastes and want an engagement ring that breaks away from the classic six claw solitaire then our grey spinel engagement ring is right for you. Spinel is a very rare, lesser known gemstone that has good durability and hardness, thus it’s appropriate for an engagement ring setting. We love grey spinel as it embodies sophistication, especially when set with black diamonds and 18ct rose gold. Either a black or white diamond set wedding band would look fabulous back with this ring.

8. Orchid – If you prefer a solid ring that can combine both the engagement and wedding rings then Orchid is for you. Some couples prefer to exchange the one ring during the ceremony and this stunning ring, that is sprinkled with sapphire and diamond pave, makes a statement. Our current Orchid ring is set with a pink tourmaline however we can source spinel, sapphires and diamonds which have the necessary durability and hardness required for a ring that is to be worn every day, forever.

Lizunova Fine Jewels also offers our customers bespoke jewellery design. We would be delighted to sit with you both and create your dream wedding rings to be cherished always.

Celebrate with Fine Jewellery

Fine jewellery can be a wonderful way to commemorate certain events in our lives. For life's milestones such as birthdays, engagements and weddings, the birth of a baby, a promotion or a new career, wedding anniversaries and even a divorce, fine jewellery is the perfect choice as it’s durable, highly portable and beautiful.

In our society, certain birthdays have become milestones that are normally celebrated with a lavish party with lots of good food, premium beverages and, most significantly, the company of friends and family. Turning 21 is thought to symbolise the moment a young person enters into adulthood and is widely celebrated. Adoring and proud parents often want to give their young adult children a gift that they can treasure forever and hopefully pass on to their children when they come of age. For a daughter, a delicate diamond necklace or diamond stud earrings would be a perfect gift that she can wear while pursuing a career or at leisure well into her adult life. For a son, a dress ring or a pair of cufflinks that can be worn to work or for formal occasions would be ideal.

Many women like to receive or gift themselves with an impressive piece of fine jewellery for each decade from 30 and beyond. Often a group of friends will pool funds together so that they can buy a gorgeous pair of earrings or a spectacular necklace that they know the birthday girl will adore. Gifting this way means that every time she wears her birthday jewels, she will be reminded of her special friends and the wonderful celebration she enjoyed to mark a milestone. Sometimes it’s good to indulge oneself with a luxury piece and starting a new decade is definitely a good time to empower oneself with a special jewel that can feel like a talisman.

It’s no secret that a bejewelled ring is presented when one asks someone to marry them. In modern times this usually means a diamond ring set into gold or platinum however there is an increasing trend towards coloured gemstone engagement rings as people want to express their individual taste. Sapphires, rubies and emeralds are often selected however now people are looking at spinels, aquamarines, tourmalines and morganites as centrepieces for contemporary engagement rings. Diamonds are often employed to offset the stunning colours of these beautiful gems and yellow and rose gold are now making a big comeback after years of white gold dominating the market.

Wedding bands symbolise a union between two people and it’s now the fashion for both partners to wear rings. Many women are loving the delightful sparkle of a fine diamond set wedding band which nicely complements their engagement ring. Some ladies are opting for a statement band that is dramatic enough to be worn on its own and if diamond-set, perhaps merges the engagement and wedding rings into one ring. Men are expressing themselves beyond the classic gold ring and are looking for edgier designs in unsual metals including palladium and zirconium. The mixed metal look is also being favoured by modern grooms.

One of life’s great achievements and cause for celebration is bringing a new baby into this world. Couples like to celebrate and commemorate a new addition to the family by having a jeweller create a special piece of jewellery. Often this is a ring and some designs allow for more diamonds or gemstones to be added as more children are born into the family. This jewellery piece would make an intimate heirloom to be passed through the generations. This piece of jewellery is generally presented to the mother by her partner, although can be presented by family or friends.

Professional women have their own portion of disposable income to spend as they please. A new job or promotion can be denoted by a knockout jewel and this is reflected in the trend for right hand rings. Right hand rings can be as extravagant and colourful as the wearer chooses and is an expression of her individual style. Women will still wear their engagement and wedding rings on their left hand while their right-hand ring can either complement or have a completely different feel and be in a different metal colour. Another option is stunning earrings that can be worn to the office or after hours. Pearls often symbolise power and femininity especially when combined with gemstones for sophisticated look. Colourful gemstone earrings can also bring some individual flair to a conservative suit.

Wedding anniversaries have been traditionally celebrated with silver, gold, gemstones and diamonds depending upon the number of years a couple have shared together. Some of the better-known anniversaries are silver for 25 years, ruby for 40, sapphire for 45, gold for 50 and diamond for 60. A lot of couples celebrate with diamonds each decade with eternity bands that can be stacked together with wedding and engagement rings or worn on the right hand. If it’s a coloured gemstone anniversary, pendants can make a nice choice.

Finally, a rather new trend is jewellery to celebrate a divorce. It may be too painful to wear your engagement ring on a different finger and a beautiful diamond or coloured stone is too precious to throw off a cliff in a whim. The smart idea is to have a jeweller create a new piece of jewellery using your metal and gemstones to create a spectacular pendant or use your diamond as one half of a set of diamond earrings. You will need a matching stone, however having the earrings will make you feel free while still honouring the beautiful stone you received at a happy time in your life. Some ladies are even opting for a divorce ring to symbolise their separation. These are as individual as the wearers and perhaps are good for enhancing self-confidence after a tremulous time.

Jewellery truly is the perfect way to celebrate the important milestones in our lives and is something to treasure forever.

Image credit: Belleame Balloons

Ten Interesting Facts about Diamonds

Diamond, the traditional engagement ring centre stone and an alluring gem used in much of historical, as well as contemporary jewellery, may be rather ubiquitous, however there are some lesser known and interesting facts, beyond the more well known 4Cs, about this beautiful gemstone.

1. Diamonds are the hardest known natural substance on Earth

They measure 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness with talc being the softest substance at one. Diamonds can only be scratched by other diamonds and due to their superior hardness, they have great durability and are ideal for engagement and wedding ring settings as they can be worn with confidence every day. As they are scratch resistant, their facet edges remain sharp much longer than other gemstones.

2. The word diamond comes from the Ancient Greek word “adamas”

Adamas translates as "proper", "unalterable", "unbreakable", "untamed" - a fitting name for the hardest natural substance on Earth! Diamond’s lustre is known as adamantine and is the brightest of all lustres. Due to its superior hardness, diamond can take a high polish and reflects light superbly.

3. Diamonds have been known to mankind for a very long time

They are believed to have been first mined in India at least 3,000 years ago and probably as far back as 6,000 years ago. The Ancient Indians used diamonds as religious icons and also implemented them into engraving tools. They were discovered in alluvial deposits in the rivers Penner, Krishna and Godavari.

4. Diamond is the only gemstone to have a single element as its equation

Diamond has only one element – “C”, which is the symbol for Carbon. All other gemstones are mineral compounds.

5. There are naturally occurring diamonds in most colours

Even though most of us think about diamonds being white (they are in reality colourless at their most ideal; the D colour grading is totally colourless), diamonds can be found in the following colours: colourless, yellow, orange, red, pink, brown, black, blue, violet and green. They are coloured by minute quantities of trace elements such as nitrogen, hydrogen and boron or by plastic deformation, which means interruptions to the crystal lattice during their dramatic journey from the Earth’s mantle to the surface via diamond pipes.

6. Why do we see rainbow sparkles of colour in diamonds?

This is due to the phenomenon known as dispersion. Dispersion is the diamond crystal’s ability to break up white light into the spectral colours as the light is bounced and totally internally reflected inside the faceted stone. Dispersion is known as ‘fire’ in the jewellery trade.

7. Diamonds repel water so are therefore hydrophobic

This means that a diamond’s surface cannot be made wet. The flip side of this is that diamonds attract oil and grease, which is extremely useful during the mining process when sorting diamond from other minerals. The downside for jewellery wearers is that diamonds need constant cleaning as contact with hand cream, sunscreens and cosmetics can affect their sparkle. The simplest way to clean your diamonds at home is to soak them in warm water with a few drops of a mild dish washing liquid. A soft brush can then be used to remove grime from the surface of the diamonds and under the settings. This method is safe for cleaning most gemstones. For more information, head to our blog Tips To Keep Your Diamonds Clean.

8. ‘Diamonds are Forever’ according to the 1940s campaign by de Beers

De Beers' campaign relaunched the popularity of diamonds to the American public. Diamonds that make it to the Earth’s surface are generally 1 billion to 3.3 billion years old so seem worthy of the lasting ‘forever’ slogan. However, they are not indestructible. Diamond has perfect yet difficult octahedral cleavage in four directions which means along these cleavage planes the atomic bonds in the crystal lattice are weaker. These planes of weakness enable diamond markers to cleave the diamond in the appropriate place so the crystal will split into two pieces. Diamonds can be chipped and fractured which comes as a surprise to most people.

9. Diamonds exist in space

As diamond is a form of carbon with predominantly covalent atomic bonding it comes as no surprise that diamond could exist in space. Although diamonds on Earth are rare, extra-terrestrial diamonds are very common. Microscopic diamonds not much larger than molecules are abundant in meteorites and some of them retain a record of their formation in stars before the Solar System existed. High pressure experiments predict that large quantities of diamonds are formed from methane on Uranus and Neptune (it is thought, through mathematical predictions, that on Uranus and Neptune it rains diamonds!), while some extrasolar planets may be almost entirely composed of diamond. Diamonds are also found in stars and may be the first mineral to have formed.

10. Man can make diamonds of his own

Synthetic gemstones are not fake gemstones; they have the same physical, chemical and optical properties as their natural counterparts. The difference is that natural occurring diamonds took up to 3 billion years to form under the Earth’s mantle while synthetic diamonds are created by man in laboratory conditions over several months. During the 20th century the race was on to synthesise diamond. There are two methods, high-pressure/high temperature and chemical vapour deposition. Most synthetic diamond is used for industry, however synthetic diamonds of gem quality are now being produced and only a highly trained gemmologist with special instruments can detect the difference from natural stones.

Image Credit: bbc.com